I’m at the Imperial Hotel, in Delhi. It’s quite close to heaven on earth and the perfect place to have a last couple of days before home. I just wanted to say a big thank you to all who have read this and for your encouraging comments. I haven’t been able to thank you individually, but it’s made the typing at 5am in minus something … Continue reading Thank you!

Getting out of the Katmandu valley to get to Pokhara, was a bit of an effort. Choking pollution, too much traffic and a road partially blocked took a little negotiating and some patience. However, we were soon on a much better road with gorgeous scenery and better air. My new co-driver/navigator was feeling a little under the weather (self inflicted) and some snoozing went on, … Continue reading Varanasi: the end.

Oh God! There is more to say, plus, lots of photos. I’m just absolutely knackered and have been feeling a bit below par. Almost back to normal now, so there will be another post – just bear with me, if you can be bothered. We’re are now in a Lumbini – birth place of Lord Buddha, allegedly. I thought I’d been there in Bihar – … Continue reading Not done yet..

I walked up the deserted street in GiLong towards the car compound with the snowy mountains hanging over me and I felt quite emotional. I entered the supposedly secure car park (several cars were rifled through in the night) and walked around all the filthy, beautiful and plucky little cars. I was alone, as it was well before breakfast and the light was just appearing. … Continue reading Farewell Tibet, hello Nepal.

It’s 0200 am. We’ve spent over 16 hours on the road. 4 hours with border formalities and 12 hours driving 155 kms. Do you get that? 155 kms and it took OVER 12 HOURS! That’s all you need to know, for the moment. 12 HOURS. Less than 100 miles! A full report will follow – it may take some time. Best rally day EVER! I’m … Continue reading Best day ever – and the hardest..

Today, we crossed the Himalayas in our own cars; some about to have their centenary. We are the first western people to have done it over the Ji Long pass. Self drive is illegal in Tibet so the organisers worked tirelessly to get the necessary permissions. There is a pass further east, that is more commonly used by the very few foreigners that make the … Continue reading Crossing the Himalayas.

Today was a transit day. Almost 500 kms and nearly all of it on the main road to Lhasa. What was striking, was how little traffic there was. Just us, a few trucks and the odd car. It was a demonstration of how remote and unpopulated an area we have been in. We’ve been closer to Kabul than Lhasa. The drive was easy and fairly … Continue reading Transit and warm – at last!

I told you I’d let you know about car problems over the last few days, well, here they are. On the morning of our last camping night, the whole tank of diesel in Rudi’s Defender was completely frozen. It took until 2 in the afternoon until they were able to leave the coldest, windiest campsite in the world. Then, they had missed an amendment and … Continue reading A picnic, ruins and sheer majesty.

Where to start? Where to bloody start? Our expedition leader, Mac, who has led expeditions with Ranulph Fiennes, no less, said that what we are going through now is as extreme as it gets. Kim, our route Director, veteran of ALL P2P’s, plus other rallies worldwide, said that day 2 of our off road is the most difficult day he has ever known. It’s hardcore … Continue reading Into the freezer.

Sorry if I’m boring you, but we’ve just had another great day. While nothing can top Everest, what we have seen and done today would normally be the best day of any rally. Every day is a best day here. It is stupendous. I’m a bit of a fool though and you may wonder how on earth what I’m about to tell happened. The views … Continue reading Snowy mountains, a cobalt lake and a foolish woman.