Things seem to have settled down with the cars somewhat, thank goodness. The most common difficulties seem to be carbonisation of plugs and petrol vaporisation. The altitude is tough on the cars and adjustments have to be made depending on height. David, in the beautiful and oh so fast 1925 Bentley, told me he is adjusting it several times a day. Our Defender adjusts electronically for this, but you really do feel a loss of power when climbing up to a high pass. when we arrive at the hotels, the car parks are full of crews scrubbing plugs with wire brushes.

Ham and Pads have had a special fix to get over their problems. I won’t say what it is because I’d probably be talking nonsense. I may sound as if I know about the technicalities of cars, but I really don’t. I can explain Dom and Rose’s problem, however. When their Jag was being prepped, larger wheels were put on and they have been rubbing on the wheel arches. There was nothing to do except get an axle grinder, cut around the arch, and finish off with black gaffer tape. The car may have lost some of its looks, but at least it’s fit for purpose.

Yesterday we stayed in Linzhi with its swanky new airport. The last 80 kms or so were on a brand new motorway with no one on it. I think I saw one other car, other than us. The thrill of it! I was driving and being able to put my foot down and zoom away was terrific. I have no pics, for obvious reasons. The Defender, being longer and wider than normal and with a higher centre of gravity, can be a little lumbering on the windy roads, especially combined with the altitude. It’s not too bad, just not as fast. But we’re not in a race and have too many wonderful things to look at, so it’s not a problem. My navigator managed to take me past the hotel, much to the amusement of a couple of cars who were behind us.

The scenery is astounding and ever changing. We’ve had our first sightings of the Himalayan range too. Yesterday, it was almost Alpine. We are on the high Tibetan Plateau now so there are not quite so many ups and downs. Still plenty, it’s just that we are high all the time. We went over one high, snow covered pass that was exhilarating, if freezing cold. I feel the cold badly so have brought many layers. Often, I’m wearing a merino base layer, polartec fleece, a down gilet, a cashmere hat and a gore tex outer skin. Adrian is in shirtsleeves. The temperatures vary wildly, even on the same day. It can be minus something to plus a lot and the intensity of the sun is very burning.

Today, has been all about infrastructure. China are putting in a new high speed train line being built between Chengdu and Lhasa and it’s an ambitious, astonishing project. The distance is 1,600 kms. Currently, the route is far more circuitous and takes 36 hours. This will be cut down to 13. It’s the most ambitious rail project ever undertaken in the world, mainly because of the inhospitable terrain.. Over half the route will be on bridges and through tunnels and it is expected to be running by 2030. It will be quite a ride. To see it with your own eyes in the construction stage is something else. The scale of it is awe inspiring – you can scarcely believe it. Part of the project means diverting rivers to get cranes in to lift sections. First they divert it to the left, then the right. The poor yaks can’t know what’s going on, nor can the local people who will have high speed trains zooming past, very, very close to their houses. No HS2 style compensation for them.

We’ve been aware that we are some of the very few western people to have travelled in eastern Tibet. The majority of visitors fly into Lhasa and do a small tour. It’s obvious that few have seen a woman with yellow hair too. They are curious and very friendly. We attract crowds wherever we go. Apparently, we are on Chinese national television and our progress is being followed closely. We often see someone at the side of the road filming us. Communication is very tricky, although the google translate app is excellent.

Tomorrow, we go to Lhasa. There’s a name to conjur with, isn’t it? So mysterious and romantic. I felt that about going to Mandalay, in Myanmar. In truth, it was just a big city, with no romance at all. I hope the same isn’t true of Lhasa. We’re staying three nights at the Shangri-La. Some luxury after our perfectly adequate but mainly soulless Chinese style accommodation. It will be time for a good rest, sorting out cars and, most importantly, laundry. You travel light on a rally and get filthy, usually wearing the same few things in rotation for days. Although I do find a spritz of Tom Ford noir de noir works wonders.