Today, we crossed the Himalayas in our own cars; some about to have their centenary. We are the first western people to have done it over the Ji Long pass. Self drive is illegal in Tibet so the organisers worked tirelessly to get the necessary permissions. There is a pass further east, that is more commonly used by the very few foreigners that make the crossing from Tibet to Nepal, but none will be driving their own vehicles

Tibet put on a last spectacular show for us before we reached the border town of Ji Long. We drove up to a pass of 5200m with our last, very clear, Everest views on our left. The pass was simply stunning. Lots of snow and no wind. No wind! We lingered in the strong sunshine and marvelled not just at the view of the snowy peaks, but at the road we were going on to get down. It was yet another wonder of Chinese engineering.

As we descended, to our last night halt in Tibet, yet more miraculous things appeared before us. There was some green grass, trees and even rhododendrons. We’ve seen not a single green thing since Lhasa.

The narrow, beautiful pass road kept giving us jaw dropping views of range after mountain range. You cannot conceive of such beauty.

I’ve absolutely loved Tibet. It was almost a country of two halves – before and after Lhasa. The wild, wild west was captivating, bleak, inhospitable and so damn cold. The people we met were amazed by us. We were almost certainly the first western people they had seen and my hair caused particular amusement. Everyone has been super friendly and curious. Mouths often open at the spectacle before them. Doc John, an expert in these things, thinks that fewer than 100 people from Western Europe will have seen the Lost Kingdom of Guge, so difficult is it to get to.

I’ve always said, since 2010 anyway, that Mongolia is the most beautiful country in the world. Well, move over Mongolia, Tibet has just taken your place. The altitude and cold have both made things very hard for us but, fortunately and certainly to the relief of our two docs and the organisation, no one has suffered too badly. We were all sensible and heeded the advice given. At this border town we are only a bit over 2200m – we have more oxygen and can breath easily again! Katmandu is even lower.

We are 18kms from the border and will cross in the morning to get to Katmandu. The many formalities will be slow and tedious. A tiny number of cars use this border post as it is mainly Nepali lorries that then ship loads from China in the small town we are staying in.

Today was Jumbo’s birthday. A cake was presented with the number candles the wrong way round making him 95! He made an affecting speech about how if you cannot be with your own family on your birthday, than you should be with your rally family. I was deeply touched by that because it’s exactly what we are. A family, bound together by our extraordinary adventures and the real hardship on this jaunt. Like all families, we look out for each other and there is real love among the group. When you achieve what we have over the last three weeks the ties that bind are tight.

It’s a rest day in Katmandu tomorrow – our first since Lhasa almost two weeks ago. We’re in a luxurious hotel – I think we’ve earned it. Some crews are going home on Saturday but 6 of us are going further into Nepal and into India, finishing in Varanasi. Adrian is leaving for London in Katmandu and I was going to be joined by a very dear friend to complete the rally. Alas, and very sadly, she is unable to come at the last minute and so Mark is coming back. He and Chris flew back from Lhasa after their Silver Ghost had a terminal failure. The Yak and Yeti buffet won’t know what’s hit it tonight.